Centella (cica): what it does, who it is for, in which form

Centella asiatica, the thankuni leaf, a familiar plant in Bangladesh, is "cica" in Korean skincare. One job, but an important one: calming stinging, red skin and helping the barrier repair.

The words on the label

• Centella Asiatica Extract: the whole extract, strength unknown.
• Madecassoside, Asiaticoside, Madecassic/Asiatic Acid: the active molecules; listed separately means a formula built on purpose. TECA = the four together.
• "Centella 100%" means centella water in place of water: useful, not 100% active ingredient.

What it does (with evidence)

• Reduces redness and stinging: beside retinol or acids, after shaving, after sun.
• Helps healing and strengthens the barrier: small trials show less water loss from the skin.
• Fades the red marks after acne (PIE) faster: a steady user experience.

What not to expect

Curing acne (needs BHA alongside), lifting dark marks (niacinamide/TXA), shrinking pores. Centella is a helper, not an active.

Which form for whom

• Ampoule/serum: every skin type, after toner, twice a day. On oily skin it can replace the moisturiser. — SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Ampoule 55ml
• Gel cream: oily-sensitive. — IUNIK Centella Calming Gel Cream 60ml, IUNIK Centella Relief Sorbet Cream 50ml
• Cream: dry-sensitive, winter. — SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Probio Cica Enrich Cream 50ml
• Toner: for layering, after acids. — SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Probio-Cica Essence Toner 210ml
• Sunscreen: sun protection plus calming for red skin. — SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Air-Fit Suncream Light 50ml

Who it suits most

Sensitive, red, rosacea-prone (with a doctor's advice), skin starting retinol, skin dried out by acne medication, pregnancy (considered safe).

The rare problem

Plant extracts can cause allergy: test a new product on the jaw for 24 hours. Itching means stop.

Centella is the "calming" step of the routine; the other steps: routine guide.

Sources

• Published reviews: the triterpenes of Centella asiatica (madecassoside, asiaticoside) are effective in wound healing, collagen synthesis and reducing inflammation, with a good topical safety profile.
• Small clinical trials: centella-containing creams raised skin hydration and reduced water loss.