Korean skincare for acne: what to use at each step

The biggest mistake on acne-prone skin is piling on strong products at once. The skin stings, peels and the acne turns redder. The Korean approach runs the other way: gentle cleansing, calming, then one active at a time.

Step 1: a gentle cleanser, twice a day

More foam does not mean cleaner. A harsh wash strips the skin's oil, and the skin answers by making more. A low-pH gel cleanser twice a day is enough. A cleanser with salicylic acid loosens the oil inside the pore; on acne-prone skin, once a day, morning or night.

• Morning: COSRX Salicylic Acid Daily Gentle Cleanser 150ml
• Wearing makeup or sunscreen? At night, oil cleanser first, then foam (double cleansing guide)

Step 2: a calming toner

Heartleaf (Houttuynia cordata) is the best-known ingredient in Korean acne routines: it eases redness and keeps the skin cool. Press an alcohol-free toner in with your hands, no rubbing with cotton.

• Anua Heartleaf 77% Soothing Toner 250ml New

Step 3: one active, BHA

BHA (salicylic acid) is oil-soluble, so it gets inside the pore and clears blackheads and clogged pores. Start with two or three nights a week, then nightly once the skin is used to it. Not on the same night as retinol or vitamin C.

• COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid 100ml
• Lots of red, swollen spots? Azelaic acid is the better pick instead of BHA (and sensitive skin tolerates it).

Step 4: a light moisturiser, never skipped

"Why cream on oily skin?" Skipping moisturiser weakens the skin barrier, and then actives are not tolerated. Go for a gel or lotion texture, not a heavy cream.

• Anua Heartleaf 80% Soothing Ampoule 30ml (when the marks stay red)
• Anua Heartleaf 70% Intense Calming Cream 50ml

Step 5: sunscreen in the morning, the real fix for acne marks

The dark marks left after a spot heals (PIH) get darker in the sun. A non-comedogenic, light-finish sunscreen every day, and again after two or three hours outdoors.

• Anua Zero-Cast Moisturizing Finish Sunscreen SPF 50 50ml

What not to mix

• BHA and retinol: not on the same night; alternate.
• BHA and vitamin C: not together; vitamin C in the morning, BHA at night.
• Add one new active at a time and give it two weeks before the next.

Deep, painful acne, or no change after months? These are cosmetics; see a dermatologist. Not sure of your skin type? Do the Skin Advisor first.

Sources

• American Academy of Dermatology: gentle cleanser twice a day, non-comedogenic products and daily sunscreen for acne-prone skin.
• Salicylic acid works inside the pore because it is oil-soluble, the common finding of published dermatology reviews.