Melasma and dark spots: which ingredients help and which waste your time

Most people shopping for a "whitening cream" buy the wrong thing. There are two kinds of dark marks, and they take different paths.

First: melasma or marks?

• Melasma: spread-out brown patches on the cheeks, forehead and upper lip, roughly even on both sides. Worse with hormones, sun and heat. It fades slowly and can come back; this is a long game.
• Post-acne marks (PIH): small dark spots exactly where a pimple was. With the right care they lighten over a few months.

Ingredients with evidence behind them

• Tranexamic acid (TXA): the most discussed topical for melasma; it turns down the signal to make pigment. Pairs well with niacinamide. — Aprilskin TXA Niacinamide Toning Shot 99 Serum 30ml, Numbuzin No.5 Glutathione TXA Advanced Dark Spot Ampoule Concentrate 17g
• Niacinamide (2–5%+): slows pigment reaching the surface, and helps pores and oil too. Tolerated by every skin type, morning and night. — COSRX The Niacinamide 15 Serum 20ml
• Azelaic acid: for marks and acne both; red, sensitive skin tolerates it well. — Medicube Azelaic Acid Niacinamide Clear Toner 250ml
• Vitamin C: in the morning under sunscreen, extra defence against sun damage, more glow. — Medicube Deep Vita C Capsule Serum 30ml
• Alpha arbutin, kojic acid: mild and slow; helpers alongside TXA or niacinamide.

What wastes your time

• "Fair in 7 days" creams. Pigment does not visibly fade before 8–12 weeks.
• Mixed creams from unknown shops: many carry unapproved steroids or mercury; the skin thins and the marks come back worse.
• Scrubbing. Rubbing does not lift pigment; it adds PIH.

The routine (8 weeks, then judge)

1. 1Morning: gentle cleanser → vitamin C or niacinamide → moisturiser → sunscreen SPF 50
2. 2Night: cleanser → TXA + niacinamide serum → moisturiser
3. 3Azelaic acid two or three nights a week (not on TXA nights)
4. 4Take a photo in the same light every month; the mirror hides change, a photo shows it

Without sunscreen it is all for nothing

Melasma grows with sun and heat. SPF 50, PA++++ every day, indoors too (window light is enough). Reapply after two hours outside. — Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Aqua-Fresh Rice+B5 50ml

Melasma that suddenly spreads, or during pregnancy: these are cosmetics, not treatment; talk to a dermatologist. Skip retinol and strong acids while pregnant.

Sources

• American Academy of Dermatology: daily broad-spectrum sunscreen is the single most important step for melasma; results take months.
• Published clinical studies show topical tranexamic acid and niacinamide reducing hyperpigmentation over 8–12 weeks.