How to start retinol: what strength, how many nights, what to avoid

Retinol is the most proven anti-ageing ingredient in skincare, and the one most often started wrong. Most people apply it nightly in week one, peel, and quit. Start slowly and almost everyone tolerates it.

Which is which

• Retinol: the most common. The skin converts it in two steps, so it is gentle and slow. 0.1–0.3% to start.
• Retinal (retinaldehyde): one step closer, works faster than retinol, comparably tolerated. 0.05–0.1% is plenty.
• Bakuchiol: plant-derived, retinol-like effects in small studies; the alternative in pregnancy and for sensitive skin.
• Tretinoin: prescription. Outside this guide.

The first month

1. 1Weeks 1–2: two nights a week. Cleanser → toner → moisturiser → retinol → moisturiser (the sandwich).
2. 2Weeks 3–4: three nights a week.
3. 3Month 2: every other night. From month 3, nightly if tolerated; not compulsory, three nights a week still delivers.
4. 4A pea for the whole face. More is not more result, it is more peeling.

What changes in the morning

Sunscreen becomes non-negotiable: retinol makes skin sun-sensitive, and sun breaks retinol down. SPF 50 daily.

Not on the same night

AHA/BHA, vitamin C (LAA), benzoyl peroxide. Alternate: a retinol night, an acid night, a rest night. Niacinamide and hyaluronic acid go alongside and ease the sting.

Peeling and redness

Normal in the first two to four weeks. Manage it: fewer nights, the sandwich, a ceramide or snail cream, no scrubs. If it burns, stop for two weeks and restart at a lower strength.

Who should skip it

Pregnancy and breastfeeding: take bakuchiol. Active eczema or rosacea: a dermatologist first.

Picks

• First retinol: COSRX The Retinol 0.1 Cream 20ml, SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Retinol 0.2 Boosting Shot Ampoule 9ml
• Second step: Anua Retinol 0.3% + Niacin Renewing Serum 30ml
• Retinal: KSECRET SEOUL 1988 Serum : Retinal Liposome 2% + Black Ginseng 30ml
• Pregnancy / sensitive: Numbuzin No. 3 Blue Bio-Retinol Pore Refining Serum 30ml (bakuchiol)
• Cream for the sandwich: COSRX Advance Snail 92 All In One Cream 100g

What to expect

Smoother skin and pores in four to six weeks; lines and marks take three to six months. This is a long-term habit, not a course.

Sources

• American Academy of Dermatology: start retinoids low, two or three nights a week; daily sunscreen; not in pregnancy.
• Published trials: 0.1–0.3% retinol improves photoageing over 12 weeks; retinal works faster than retinol at similar tolerance.