Winter skincare routine: what to change for tight, flaky skin

In winter the skin feels tight, cheeks flake, sometimes itch: the air holds less moisture, more water evaporates from the skin, and hot showers strip the little oil that was there. The routine does not need rebuilding; three changes.

Change 1: a softer cleanser

Foaming cleansers dry more in winter. Water only or a milk/gel cleanser in the morning; an oil cleanser or balm at night, then a light foam. Lukewarm water, not hot.

• Beauty of Joseon Radiance Cleansing Balm 100ml

Change 2: a richer cream, look for ceramides

Ceramides are the "bricks" of the skin barrier, and winter is when they run low. On the label: ceramide NP/AP/EOP, cholesterol, fatty acids, panthenol, beta-glucan. Move from gel cream to cream; even oily skin takes a little richer in winter.

• Haruharu Wonder Black Rice 5 Ceramide Barrier Moisturizing Cream 50ml, Round Lab Birch Juice Moisturizing Intensive Cream 50ml, IUNIK Beta Glucan 3X Barrier Cream 50ml

Change 3: fewer acid and retinol nights

The barrier is weaker, so AHA/BHA/retinol at the same frequency stings. Drop to one or two nights a week; sandwich with a hydrating essence.

• IUNIK Beta-Glucan Lacto Barrier Milk Essence 200ml

What not to change

• Sunscreen. Winter sun feels mild, UVA is the same; melasma grows in winter too. — Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Aqua-Fresh Rice+B5 50ml
• Moisturiser on damp skin. Within three minutes of the shower: the single biggest winter trick.

Body, lips, hands

Face cream on the body is pointlessly expensive; body lotion right after the shower. A petrolatum or lanolin lip balm at night. Hand cream after every wash: cracked hands are winter's most neglected problem.

Indoors

No fan or heater blowing straight at the face; a bowl of water in the bedroom or a humidifier makes a difference you can feel.

When the air turns humid in March, go back to the lighter cream: routine steps.

Sources

• American Academy of Dermatology (winter skin): short lukewarm showers; moisturise right after; a humidifier; gentle cleansers.
• Ceramide-containing moisturisers reduce the skin's water loss (TEWL), published clinical studies.